Peterborough

You know you’re in Peterborough when you spot a canoe on practically every corner. Some are land-bound, like the art installation Jiimaan’ndewemgadnong — The Place Where the Heart of the Canoe Beats, at the corner of King and Water Streets, by Anishinaabe artist Tia Cavanagh.

But there’s no better place to understand the canoe’s significance than the Canadian Canoe Museum. It’s the world’s largest collection of paddled crafts, filled with stunning, historic canoes and kayaks. The collection spans from the First Nations of the Pacific Northwest’s huge dugouts to bark canoes of Newfoundland’s Beothuk. In 2023 the museum is poised to expand in a new location and building on the water, with more exhibits to reflect its collaborative relationships between Indigenous and non-Indigenous peoples.

Peterborough is a smallish city, with a population of 84,000 and change. But it boasts a vibrant café district along Hunter Street West. A couple of attractive blocks of bars, cafés and boutiques, it includes The Only Café, perched on the edge of Jackson Creek. The Only is an institution known for excellent sandwiches, eclectic décor, and as a favourite hang for everyone from students to politicians. Another long-running favourite is Black Honey Bakery — a homey, cozy café with tasty brunches and vegan options. On the shopping front, head to Hunter and George Streets for hip fashions (S.O.S.), locally-branded “Ptbo Northern Originals” wear (Flavour), or handcrafted jewelry and gifts (Hi Ho Silver).

Step back in time at Hutchison House, a short walk from Hunter Street. Locals built the home in 1837 to entice Peterborough’s first resident physician, Dr. John Hutchison, to stick around – they were successful. Now it sits filled with medical instruments, books and furnishings of the time. The museum also has memorabilia belonging to the good doctor’s cousin, Sir Sandford Fleming, famed engineer, scientist and inventor. Fleming’s design for a forerunner of the roller blade is one of the many charming artifacts on display. In summer, take tea on the terrace; in winter, sip beside the open hearth in the Hutchison House kitchen.

A marvel of engineering, the Lift Lock its the highest hydraulic lift lock in the world and is designed to lift boats nearly twenty metres. The Lift Lock Visitor Centre explains how that’s done, as well as answers all your Trent-Severn Waterway questions (the 386-kilometre-long canal that connects Lake Ontario to Georgian Bay).

Want to get inside the Lift Lock? A Lift Lock Riverboat cruise gives you a boat’s-eye-view. Or, for the jaw-dropping experience, bring your own kayak or canoe to join in on the annual Lock ‘n’ Paddle.

In winter, skate the canal beneath the mighty lock. In summer, picnic on canal banks.

Located south of downtown on Little Lake, the AGP is a little gem of contemporary art. Its permanent collection includes work by significant regional Indigenous artists (Mary Anne Barkhouse, Michael Belmore), as well as artists from further afield (Daphne Odjig, Carl Beam, Jane Ash Poitras, and Rebecca Belmore). While you’re there, drop into the Gallery Shop for regional one-of-a-kind arts and crafts, and fun stuff for kids too. For a restful summer afternoon stop, don’t miss ice cream by the river at the cottage-like Silver Bean, just a 10-minute walk north of the gallery.

Excellence and diversity are markers of the city’s culinary strengths, for instance La Hacienda’s Mexican cuisine (and adjacent mercado), Hanoi House’s Vietnamese food (and oysters) and Fresh Dreams (traditional Spanish Tapas). All are located in and around Hunter Street West, not far from the beautifully landscaped Millennium Park trail. A post-dinner easy stroll along the Otonabee includes sculptures and a display tracing the city’s Indigenous and colonization history.

Peterborough is a music-loving town, and two venerable establishments are The Black Horse (jazz and blues) and the Historic Red Dog Tavern (reggae, rock, and hip hop). Yes, “historic” is part of the official name, opening as a hotel in 1883, and going on to become known as “the home of live music.” Many a legendary musician (Neil Young, Ronnie Hawkins, Jeff Healey) have played the Red Dog, a tradition continuing today with both nationally-known and rising-star local acts.

Peterborough has enviable proximity to lovely lakes and charming towns. Lakefield combines both, just south of Katchewanooka Lake and right on the Otonabee. A twenty-minute drive along the winding Water Street from downtown brings you past Trent University and into picturesque Lakefield. The town’s literary history (authors Susanna Moodie, Catherine Parr Traill, and Margaret Lawrence all made their homes there) makes it the logical place for July’s annual Lakefield Literary Festival. (Resuming in 2023.) Shop Queen St., or make it your dinner stop. A few popular spots: Canoe & Paddle pub, Cassis Bistro (fine dining), and The Nutty Bean, boasting “the best verandah” in town.

Located beneath Peterborough’s landmark clock tower, Market Hall is known for its theatrical and musical presentations, though it’s also a vibrant community centre, featuring political debates and more. Spacious yet still intimate, it’s come a long way since its 19th century days as a food market. Enjoy a show while testing out the local theory: the beautifully restored Market Hall hasn’t got a bad seat in the house.